© John Vink / Magnum Photos

 

And now for something totally different from the previous days in Myanmar indeed. A Tamil festival in the streets of Yangon is kind of an instantaneous jump some thousands of kilometers Westward, and shows how intertwined different cultures are in the country…

MYANMAR, Yangon. 5/05/2013: A Tamil festival in the streets of Yangon.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 5/05/2013: A Tamil festival in the streets of Yangon.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 5/05/2013: A Tamil festival in the streets of Yangon.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 5/05/2013: A Tamil festival in the streets of Yangon.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 5/05/2013: A Tamil festival in the streets of Yangon.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 5/05/2013: A Tamil festival in the streets of Yangon.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 5/05/2013: A Tamil festival in the streets of Yangon.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 5/05/2013: A Tamil festival in the streets of Yangon.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 5/05/2013: A Tamil festival in the streets of Yangon.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 5/05/2013: A Tamil festival in the streets of Yangon.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 5/05/2013: Tamil festival in the streets of Yangon.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 5/05/2013: Tamil festival in the streets of Yangon.

Back in Yangon now. The party with all the ‘7 Days in Mynmar‘ participants is over, the files delivered… Job done…

Or is it?

Not really of course. As usual a pandora’s box was opened by starting that new story on the demise of the hill tribes. There is so much more to say, so much more to show. I’m sticking around a couple more days and they will be usefull to start investigating how to go on from here. There is already one sub-story I want to cover for sure and a Sunday seems to be a good day for that… More on this later…

Meanwhile here are a few more second takes…

MYANMAR, Tachileik (Shan State). 2/05/2013: Street child swinging down from the bridge between Myanmar and Thailand. Some of them cross the border from Thailand unnoticed by authorities. Many of the children are Akha.

MYANMAR, Tachileik (Shan State). 2/05/2013: Street child swinging down from the bridge between Myanmar and Thailand. Some of them cross the border from Thailand unnoticed by authorities. Many of the children are Akha.

MYANMAR, Tachileik (Shan State). 2/05/2013: Akha women carrying back goods they cultivated in gardens in the Parlyan neighbourhood of Tachileik, where many Akha migrated to some 20 years ago, before a massive influx of Burmese since 2004, bringing the city of 100,000 to 300,000 over the last 10 years.

MYANMAR, Tachileik (Shan State). 2/05/2013: Akha women carrying back goods they cultivated in gardens in the Parlyan neighbourhood of Tachileik, where many Akha migrated to some 20 years ago, before a massive influx of Burmese since 2004, bringing the city of 100,000 to 300,000 over the last 10 years.

MYANMAR, city of Tachileik (Shan State). 3/05/2013: Akha relatives at the funeral of Bou Deu, the 43 year old Akha wife of a mason who migrated from his village near Ksieng Tong to the city of Tachileik 20 years ago.

MYANMAR, city of Tachileik (Shan State). 3/05/2013: Akha relatives at the funeral of Bou Deu, the 43 year old Akha wife of a mason who migrated from his village near Ksieng Tong to the city of Tachileik 20 years ago.

MYANMAR, city of Tachileik (Shan State). 3/05/2013: Relative resting on a tombstone at the funeral of Bou Deu, a 43 year old Akha converted to christianism and wife of a mason who migrated from his village near Ksieng Tong to the city of Tachileik 20 years ago.

MYANMAR, city of Tachileik (Shan State). 3/05/2013: Relative resting on a tombstone at the funeral of Bou Deu, a 43 year old Akha converted to christianism and wife of a mason who migrated from his village near Ksieng Tong to the city of Tachileik 20 years ago.

That is basically what the story I will submit for the ‘7 Days in Myanmar‘ project will be about… The demise of the hill tribes, the ‘normalisation’ of ‘difference’, the difficult to stop cultural leveling of society… The opening up of Myanmar will for sure increase the speed of those changes.

MYANMAR, Phar Tcho (Ksieng Tong - Shan State). 29/04/2013: Dog yawning under a water pipe in an empty village of an Enn tribe community. Only women and elderly people remain in many of the tribal villages during the end of the dry season as the others are away looking for additional income as daily labourers.

MYANMAR, Phar Tcho (Ksieng Tong - Shan State). 29/04/2013: Dog yawning under a water pipe in an empty village of an Enn tribe community. Only women and elderly people remain in many of the tribal villages during the end of the dry season as the others are away looking for additional income as daily labourers.

MYANMAR, Phar Tcho (Ksieng Tong - Shan State). 29/04/2013: Enn tribe woman threading. Only women and elderly people remain in many of the tribal villages during the end of the dry season as the others are away looking for additional income as daily labourers.

MYANMAR, Phar Tcho (Ksieng Tong - Shan State). 29/04/2013: Enn tribe woman threading. Only women and elderly people remain in many of the tribal villages during the end of the dry season as the others are away looking for additional income as daily labourers.

MYANMAR, Tachileik (Shan State). 2/05/2013: Akha boys playing football in the Parlyan neighbourhood. The Akha have established themselves here before a major influx of Burmese the last ten years. Tachileik grew from 100,000 to 300,000 inhabitants.

MYANMAR, Tachileik (Shan State). 2/05/2013: Akha boys playing football in the Parlyan neighbourhood. The Akha have established themselves here before a major influx of Burmese the last ten years. Tachileik grew from 100,000 to 300,000 inhabitants.

MYANMAR, Tachileik (Shan State). 3/05/2013: Akha relatives at the funeral of Bou Deu, the 43 year old Akha wife of a mason who migrated from Ksieng Tong to Tachileik 20 years ago.

MYANMAR, Tachileik (Shan State). 3/05/2013: Akha relatives at the funeral of Bou Deu, the 43 year old Akha wife of a mason who migrated from Ksieng Tong to Tachileik 20 years ago.

The pieces of my Myanmar puzzle during the ‘7 Days in Myanmar‘ project are coming together. As usual it is a few random encounters which bring the nicest batch of sub-stories: talking to an Akha woman in the streets of Tachileik brings me to a funeral, talking to some streetkids under the bridge crossing the border between Thailand and Myanmar opens up a whole new spectrum of not so touristic viewpoints. But more on that later. Meanwhile here is a condensed version of the story: from working the land to migrating.

MYANMAR, Ksieng Tong (Shan State). 29/04/2013: Members of one landless Akha family from the Phen Tha village, tilling the land for a Shan-owned rubber plantation on which they will be allowed to grow 'mountain rice' for free.

MYANMAR, Ksieng Tong (Shan State). 29/04/2013: Members of one landless Akha family from the Phen Tha village, tilling the land for a Shan-owned rubber plantation on which they will be allowed to grow 'mountain rice' for free.

MYANMAR, Ksieng Tong (Shan State). 29/04/2013: Rice threshing in the Ksieng Tong valley. Families here have between 4 and 2 acres of ricefield, not really enough for a sustainable agriculture.

MYANMAR, Ksieng Tong (Shan State). 29/04/2013: Rice threshing in the Ksieng Tong valley. Families here have between 4 and 2 acres of ricefield, not really enough for a sustainable agriculture.

MYANMAR, Loimwe (Shan State). 30/04/2013: Daily workers on the road from Ksieng Tong to Loimwe. Their origin is diverse, ranging from family members of the military garrison in Loimwe, to citizens from Ksieng Tong and members of the Wa tribe living in a village nearby. Women are paid a daily wage of 4500 Khyatt and men are paid 6000 Khyatt.

MYANMAR, Loimwe (Shan State). 30/04/2013: Daily workers on the road from Ksieng Tong to Loimwe. Their origin is diverse, ranging from family members of the military garrison in Loimwe, to citizens from Ksieng Tong and members of the Wa tribe living in a village nearby. Women are paid a daily wage of 4500 Khyatt and men are paid 6000 Khyatt.

MYANMAR, Tachileik (Shan State). 2/05/2013: Akha from Thailand having obtained their passes delivered by the Myanmar immigration to check out.

MYANMAR, Tachileik (Shan State). 2/05/2013: Akha from Thailand having obtained their passes delivered by the Myanmar immigration to check out.

I am back from long walks in the mountain and hooked up on a rickety WiFi in bordertown Tachileik. I have been thinking on how to link two very different places like Ksieng Tong and Tachileik, ethnic minorities and a town bordering Thailand. Having talked with a few Akha, Enn, Palaung and Wa, it seems, like anywhere else, pressure to normalise is on them as well. Their small plots of land are not sufficient anymore to nourish their families, making their situation unsustainable and triggering rural migration as well as cultural alienation.

Covering the sleazy side of Tachileik is not going to be a piece of cake as it seems impossible to rely on local or even international NGO’s like World Vision who are not authorised to talk to tourists… Fear of authorities is still very common here…

MYANMAR, Wan Pauk (Ksieng Tong - Shan State). 28/04/2013: Elderly Palaung woman carrying rice stems to her house, some 3 kilometers away.

MYANMAR, Wan Pauk (Ksieng Tong - Shan State). 28/04/2013: Elderly Palaung woman carrying rice stems to her house, some 3 kilometers away.

MYANMAR, Wan Pauk (Ksieng Tong - Shan State). 28/04/2013: Second rice harvest of the year by members of the Palaung. They own about 4 acres of land, producing 1200Kg/ hectare

MYANMAR, Wan Pauk (Ksieng Tong - Shan State). 28/04/2013: Second rice harvest of the year by members of the Palaung. They own about 4 acres of land, producing 1200Kg/ hectare

MYANMAR, Ksieng Tong (Shan State). 29/04/2013: Woman dressed in clothing protecting her from the heat, collecting every single rice stem left over by the mechanical harvesting machine.

MYANMAR, Ksieng Tong (Shan State). 29/04/2013: Woman dressed in clothing protecting her from the heat, collecting every single rice stem left over by the mechanical harvesting machine.

MYANMAR, Pan Lei (Ksieng Tong - Shan State). 29/04/2013: Members of the Enn minority. There are only 2,000 members of this ethnic group remaining.

MYANMAR, Pan Lei (Ksieng Tong - Shan State). 29/04/2013: Members of the Enn minority. There are only 2,000 members of this ethnic group remaining.

Between a press conference, a party for the ‘7 Days in Myanmar‘ project, and with blazing hot temperatures in the streets, I had only a short time to spend at the obvious: Schwedagon Pagoda. Luckily some families were having a ceremony for their child…

MYANMAR, Yangon. 27/04/2013: Woman praying while families celebrate a ceremony for their child at Schwedagon Pagoda.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 27/04/2013: Woman praying while families celebrate a ceremony for their child at Schwedagon Pagoda.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 27/04/2013: Woman praying while families celebrate a ceremony for their child at Schwedagon Pagoda.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 27/04/2013: Woman praying while families celebrate a ceremony for their child at Schwedagon Pagoda.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 27/04/2013: Families celebrating a ceremony for their child at Schwedagon Pagoda.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 27/04/2013: Families celebrating a ceremony for their child at Schwedagon Pagoda.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 27/04/2013: Families celebrating a ceremony for their child at Schwedagon Pagoda.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 27/04/2013: Families celebrating a ceremony for their child at Schwedagon Pagoda.

It is nearly all right. The fear has eased and comfort when photographing is slowly setting in. People keep politely asking me where I come from. Reminds me of ten years ago in Cambodia.

And I now also know about the areas I am supposed to photograph for ‘7 Days in Myanmar‘: the Eastern Shan area with Keng Tung and the bordertown of Tachilek. If the fixer is not too much used working with tourists this might be interesting.

Here is yesterday’s take wandering in Yangon… No purpose. Just for photography’s sake. And it seems I’m lifting my elbow a lot again…

MYANMAR, Yangon. 26/04/2013: Man reading his newspaper while chilling out inside the cooler Sule Pagoda.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 26/04/2013: Man reading his newspaper while chilling out inside the cooler Sule Pagoda.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 26/04/2013: Preparing the lighting for a buddhist street festival.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 26/04/2013: Preparing the lighting for a buddhist street festival.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 26/04/2013: Spreading out the mats for a buddhist festival on street 28.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 26/04/2013: Spreading out the mats for a buddhist festival on street 28.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 26/04/2013: Spreading out the mats for a buddhist festival on street 28.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 26/04/2013: Spreading out the mats for a buddhist festival on street 28.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 26/04/2013: Muslim man watching residents of his street spread out mats for a buddhist festival on street 28.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 26/04/2013: Muslim man watching residents of his street spread out mats for a buddhist festival on street 28.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 26/04/2013: Selling bananas at a crossroad in downtown Yangon.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 26/04/2013: Selling bananas at a crossroad in downtown Yangon.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 26/04/2013: Children collecting money for a buddhist street festival in downtown Yangon.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 26/04/2013: Children collecting money for a buddhist street festival in downtown Yangon.

I have been probing how people react to being photographed here on my first day in Yangon. Seems to be all right… It remains a challenge.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 25/04/2013: Family in a rickshaw near the ferry, close to Strands Hotel.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 25/04/2013: Family in a rickshaw near the ferry, close to Strands Hotel.

MYANMAR. Yangon. 25/04/2013: People crossing the Yangon river with small shuttles.

MYANMAR. Yangon. 25/04/2013: People crossing the Yangon river with small shuttles.

MYANMAR. Yangon. 25/04/2013: Waiting for the ferry.

MYANMAR. Yangon. 25/04/2013: Waiting for the ferry.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 25/04/2013: Man carrying a basket in downtown Yangon.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 25/04/2013: Man carrying a basket in downtown Yangon.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 25/04/2013: Bus station near street 31.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 25/04/2013: Bus station near street 31.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 25/04/2013: Elderly woman at food stall at bus station near street 31.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 25/04/2013: Elderly woman at food stall at bus station near street 31.

MYANMAR. Yangon. 25/04/2013: Woman selling corn on the cob to people crossing the Yangon river with small shuttles.

MYANMAR. Yangon. 25/04/2013: Woman selling corn on the cob to people crossing the Yangon river with small shuttles.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 25/04/2013: Rickshaw wallah near the ferry, close to Strands Hotel.

MYANMAR, Yangon. 25/04/2013: Rickshaw wallah near the ferry, close to Strands Hotel.